Skinny Water in the Summertime
by Terry Brown
No question we have all encountered unbearable hot summer conditions that make fishing very difficult and force us to seek ledges, old creek channels, bluff walls or deep points when looking for summertime bass. These all can hold potential and pay huge dividends, but no matter how hot or sultry it may get, there are always shallow fish.
Anglers across the country have learned valuable tactics and techniques that can access deep summertime haunts of the most sought after game fish in the world. Carolina rigs, deep-diving crankbaits, large plastic worms, heavy spinnerbaits and even jigs and chunks have large followings across the country. It seems that regional preferences and the type of structure on local lakes dictate the technique of choice.
Savvy bass anglers have also found that there are certain conditions that will move bass shallow and hold them there during summer. Some of these include current next to an undercut bank, heavy cover with ample amounts of bait and shade, docks, and one of nature’s best fish holding structures. . . lily pads.
Noted cranking expert and deep water legend Paul Elias also thinks shallow water is a potential haven for summertime bass. “I love to crankbait ledges, points and docks in the hot summer months, but I will also go shallow this time of year if the conditions are right” noted Elias.
“If a lake has very minimal deep water or defined ledges, it is a no-brainer that fish will be extremely shallow and seeking cover….most generally thick, thick cover,” says Elias. “I have also found them shallow on lakes that have all the aforementioned characteristics, but food and cover seem to be what puts them there,” he maintains.
“Brush, tree-tops, and vegetation are the first areas to explore when seeking out shallow summertime bass. I have found bass in as shallow as one foot of water this time of year if cover is present….and this is during the middle of the day,” he adds.
One type of vegetation that is often overlooked, but that holds big bass in the summer, is lily pads. Lily pads without question are fish attracting magnets. Ample amounts of baitfish, grass shrimp, worms, bugs and frogs all love them and they in turn attract bass.
Pads provide a canopy for shade, a resting place for an unsuspecting frog or insect, and an attack point for aggressive bass. The opaque pad leaves allow sun to be filtered out so that dark objects like insets and frogs can be easily seen from below. Contrasted against a bright sky, the unsuspecting prey is easily “blasted” by the bass since he sits below it.
Characteristics that make pads great holding areas are their propensity to expand and spread out and the fact that they provide natural points and edges. They may be close to deep water, but most generally they will not grow in water more than six feet deep.
Those that lay flat on the water are preferable and, if other vegetation like hydrilla, coon-tail or milfoil is mixed in, watch out!
The most important natural characteristic that makes pads attract bass is their natural canopy which kills vegetation below them and allows the bass to navigate through a myriad of tangled stems and leaves.
While some shallow areas may be choked out by Eurasian milfoil, hydrilla or even coon-tail, the areas below pads usually stay clear and less disturbed than the filtering weeds. Bump into a patch of hydrilla or milfoil and the bottom dirt will muddy the area around it. Bump into a pad and it will generally stay clear.
Techniques for catching big bass from pads vary, but there are some tried and true ones that usually work. Rats, spoons, in-line spinners, and buzzbaits are great for probing the outside edges, while flipping craws, paddle-tail worms, and jig and chunk combos all can work well while digging deeper into the pad field.
Using a slow moving Mann’s Rat or a Johnson Silver spoon with a frog trailer is effective on the hottest and brightest days. Each has a distinctive difference in presentation, but both can be deadly for bass.
Most bass caught this way tend to be larger and the angler will need heavy line, at least 20 lb. test, a quick-tip rod more than 6 ½ feet in length, and extra sharp hooks on the bait. Grass and pad baits such as frogs, rats, or spoons usually come with hooks that are not very sharp. A good rule is to sharpen them right out of the box.
The type of vegetation will dictate how to rig the bait. Pond scum or matted milfoil may require covering the hook points into the bait, while heavy vegetation may call for rattles to be inserted into the bait. The new tube rattles seem to work best for this application, but they will change the way the bait sits in the water. Less dense cover will allow the angler to fish with hooks that are more exposed and can result in more hook-ups.
A characteristic of pad fishing is missed fish, which is just the nature of this type of fishing. At times bass will explode on the bait to check it out or try to injure it before engulfing it. Many times anglers will miss these fish simply by instantly reacting at the strike versus waiting a count of two before setting the hook. It is very difficult to do, but waiting WILL result in more hook-ups!
Use a one-two punch if a fish misses the bait on top. Pitch a paddle tail worm or tube to the “blow up” and many times the bass will immediately take the bait.
Noted Florida top-water expert and “energized” television personality Shaw Grigsby says it best, “Top-water is without question one of my favorite ways to fish, but hot summertime pad fishing and the explosions of big bass through them is heart stopping. I love it.”
Hot summertime bassin’ has always tended to be a deep water pursuit, but don’t forget to “go skinny” in the summer when conditions are right. It can pay big dividends.
|